← Field guide · All reference

Field guide · Money

What things cost

Prices of ordinary things, and what they mean to the people charging them

A glass of chai at a stall on the Jodhpur road costs ten rupees. Your ticket into the Taj Mahal costs a hundred and thirty times that. Both numbers are right, and the distance between them explains most of what you will see through a car window. Prices here are what to expect in Rajasthan in November 2026, checked in August. Anything with a ticket counter attached is worth a second look on the day.

The anchor

Learn one conversion and you can stop doing arithmetic. Rates as of August 2026.

RupeesZłotyEuro
₹100about 3.90 złabout €0.90
₹1,000about 39 złabout €9
₹10,000about 390 złabout €90

In the head: divide rupees by 25 for złoty, by 110 for euro. A four-figure rupee price is rarely a large sum, and a two-figure one is almost nothing to you — which is exactly the trap. The gap between "almost nothing to me" and "a morning's pay to him" is where haggling stops being a game.

What things cost

ItemTypical priceWhat it tells you
Chai, small glass at a stall₹10–20The unit of Indian sociability. Ten rupees on the highway, twenty in a city.
Litre of bottled water₹20The price is printed on the bottle. Being asked for more means the shop is testing you.
Samosa₹15–30Cheapest in villages, dearest in Mumbai and Bengaluru. Rajasthan sits low.
Jalebi and other sweets₹200–300 a kiloSold by weight, not by piece. Fifty rupees is plenty for four people.
Roti at a dhaba₹10–15They keep coming until you say stop.
Vegetarian thali at a dhaba₹120–200A working man's lunch, and the best value on the road.
Main course, hotel restaurant₹400–700Three to five times the dhaba, for the tablecloth and the toilets.
Bottle of beer with dinner₹350–500Rajasthan taxes drink hard. Some towns near temples sell none at all.
Auto-rickshaw, a 3 km hop₹50–150Delhi's meter says ₹30 for the first 1.5 km, then ₹11 a km. The meter will not be used on you.
Uber or Ola in a city₹15–20 a km, about ₹80 minimumFixed in the app, so no argument. Usually cheaper than the auto you just haggled for.
Litre of petrol₹112 in Jaipur, ₹102 in DelhiSame fuel, different state tax. Rajasthan is one of the dearest states to drive in.

What people earn

WorkPay
Rural work-guarantee scheme, Rajasthan rate₹300 a day
Building-site or farm labourer₹450–700 a day, when there is work
Shop assistant, hotel cleaner₹12,000–20,000 a month
Government primary school teacher₹35,400 basic, roughly ₹45,000–60,000 in hand

The first row is the floor: the state guarantees rural households unskilled work at that rate, so private employers must beat it or find nobody. The last row is why a government job with a pension is the most sought-after thing in a small Rajasthani town, and why the teacher's family owns a scooter and the labourer's does not. Your ticket into the Taj Mahal costs what four days of guaranteed rural work pays.

Tickets

MonumentForeignerIndian
Taj Mahal₹1,100, plus ₹200 for the mausoleum itself₹50, plus the same ₹200
Agra Fort₹650₹50
Fatehpur Sikri₹550–610 (sources differ)₹50
Amber Fort₹1,000₹200
Jaipur composite, 8 sites over 2 days₹1,000–1,100₹400–450
Mehrangarh, Jodhpur₹600, audio guide included₹100
Kumbhalgarh₹600₹40

Two practical notes. The Archaeological Survey, which runs the Agra sites and Kumbhalgarh, has pushed its ticketing online and its counters increasingly refuse cash — book on the official portal the night before and carry the QR code on a phone. Palaces run by family trusts rather than the state, such as the City Palace in Udaipur, set their own prices and change them without warning; check those at the gate.

Why foreigners pay more

The ratio runs from five to one at Amber to twenty-two to one at the Taj, and it is deliberate policy, not a scam. Set one price high enough to maintain the buildings and you shut out the Indian families the monuments belong to; set it low enough for them and the upkeep is unfunded. Two prices solve it. Measured against income the Indian rate is the harder one: ₹50 is a sixth of a day's guaranteed wage, while ₹1,100 is a decent lunch in Warsaw. The tourist ticket is the cheapest part of your day, and it is subsidising the queue in front of you.

Cash, QR codes and cards

Every stall in India has a printed QR code taped to the counter because instant bank-to-bank payment is free here and works for a ten-rupee tea. Riding it needs an Indian bank account and an Indian phone number, which you will not have. There is one workaround: a prepaid tourist wallet, set up with a passport and visa through an app, topped up from a foreign card and refunded when you leave, with a cap around ₹25,000 a load and ₹50,000 a month. It is sold at Delhi airport. Set it up only if the idea of carrying cash bothers you; otherwise skip it.

Cash is simpler. ATMs are everywhere and take foreign cards. State-owned banks — State Bank of India, Punjab National Bank, Bank of Baroda — usually add nothing at their end, while the private ones charge ₹200–300 a withdrawal, so take the machine's maximum each time, often ₹10,000. Tell your bank you are travelling first.

Then there is the note problem. Since the ₹2,000 note was withdrawn in 2023 the largest note is ₹500, and that is what every ATM hands out. Nobody selling chai can break one, and being asked to wait while a shopkeeper runs down the street to find change is a daily event. Break your ₹500s where it is painless — hotels, restaurants, petrol pumps, ticket counters — and hoard the small notes. Cards work at hotels and chain restaurants and almost nowhere else you will want to buy something.

Tipping

WhoHow much
Your driver, for the six-day tour₹400–600 a day from the group; hand it over on the last morning, about ₹3,000 in one envelope
Guide at a single site₹300–500
Hotel porter₹50–100 a bag
Housekeeping₹100 a night, left in the room
Restaurant5–10%, unless a service charge is already on the bill
Chai stall, auto driver, shopkeeperNothing

Tip in rupee notes, not coins and not foreign currency, which nobody can change. And keep it in proportion: the driver's tip is real money to him, and it arrives on top of a wage the agency already pays.

The rest of the field guide